Travel Across US: HUMPHREYS PEAK (hike)

October 17^th 2012

Length: 9 miles

Time: 7.15 – 12.59 (5 hours and 44 minutes)

Start elevation: 9300 feet

End elevation: 12633 feet

7.15

I dropped J. at work and drove to Arizona Snowbowl. I saw bunch of deer along the road. There were two cars at parking lot. This was my first hike with some preparation (I had bag with water, food and some clothing). Another guy (I called him Stick guy) was getting ready to start hiking. I was faster. It was cold and slightly dark. Again, I made mistake and started to fast, so soon I was feeling shortness of breath.

The sign pointing to my very immediate future.

Aim. Humphreys Peak in distance. I will make it!

Frost around me, ground partially frozen and it is cold.

I had some nice views when I left parking lot and I saw the beginning of the forest. Here I come!

It is somewhat dark and really rocky in the forest. I am hoping it will get better. It did not.

There is snow on the trail. I do not like it. And ... I am thinking it will be worse going down. It was.

7.40

The beginning of the trail was in the forest, it was not bad – some rocks and roots. At this time, I got to the actual trailhead. It was pretty cold and I started to sweat, which did not feel good. I could see parts of the skiing area. I walked slower and I could breath better.

I lost the trail here and cross this. Not good.

First nice view, a bit shy, but better then nothing.

8.15

Feeling OK. First views through the trees. More rocks and roots on the trail, as well more snow and ice. Still cold. Big bird (not yellow one). There should be moderation in life (as I was walking I was thinking and time to time talking to myself).

8.40

More snow and more views. Still feeling OK. I am getting to know Humphreys. More rocks as well. Looking around and enjoying the walk, I missed the turn and try to find the trail over the rocks. I lost probably 7 minutes and Stick boy got within 100 yards or so.

Well, I am going up. Trees are disappearing, I see mountains covered with snow and more and more rocks.

Still the same amazing views and the sign for elevation.

That is the top of the skylift (we were there about a week ago).

9.00

Sign for 11400 feet and no camping above that. Still feeling ok. I took jacket off and I am sweating. I could see the top of the skylift. More views, more rocks and more ice. And as well more sun as the forest is thinning.

Finally the view on different side.

KEEP CLIMBING!!!

Obviously, that is me.

9.25

To get here, trail split, I had to climb flipping ugly staircase. That did not feel good. But I still feel pretty good. Heading towards this split (it was false summit) I could see some people. When I got there, they were ready to continue. Very small talk. Middle age couple (he was maybe a bit older). He said, he already climbed the peak five times and that I was about an hour away. She was from Wisconsin and had some bohemian (Czech) ancestry. Small world. They apparently started at five o’clock.

10.00

On the side of one of few (maybe 5) of false peaks. Now it is kicking my ass big time. I passed that couple and was heading up. More snow. No trees. Windy. Incredible views. And more snow. Looking at another peak and hoping it is Humphreys (it was not). The trail is marked with sticks, but it is quite hard to follow it with all the snow and rocks.

10.23

12 633 feet above see level. I did it. I am standing at the top of San Francisco Peaks, at Humphreys Peak. I can look at any side and see something. It is amazing and incredible. There is some “monkey business” around and small shelter made of rocks.

What to say? I made it!!!

Again, what to say???

I called J. and her parents. I was very surprised how good signal I had. Then I looked around few times and took a lot of pictures. Meanwhile, I could see that couple getting slowly up. When I was done with picture taking, I was just trying to absorb the magnificent views, the size of the land I could see. I was (at that moment) standing at the top of the world (at least in Arizona).

10.35

I left the top of Arizona. I was as well surprised, that I felt pretty fine and did not have any problems. It was somewhat worse going down because of the rocks and snow. I met that couple again, we exchanged few words and they told me congratulations.

11.15

I was back to the trail split. On the way here, I met Stick boy and younger couple. I felt pretty good about my speed and accomplishment. The Stick boy left parking lot at almost same time as me (now he was probably 45 minutes behind). And … Stick boy because he had walking sticks.

My knees started to hurt some. And it was really slippery. Still, I thought it was not as bad as my walk on the top of Mt. Elden (well, I was not prepared at all).

SNOW.

But it is still fall with changing colors.

And again me, so you do not complain about the lack of personal pictures.

11.40

11400 feet mark. Just below the split, I met German guy (in the trailhead booklet he listed Netherlands). We talked for a while (I lost probably 25 minutes with talking). The sun is up and it is pretty warm. Few part of the trail are really slippery and I have troubles to walk. Not nice. Two ladies going up (with sticks).

And going down.

11.55

I was making stops and writing time down, as well some notes and passing people. I had to stop here because there was more people. Still slippery, the views obstructed by trees. Three hippies with the dog. At one point I had to get off the trail and walk through snow on the side. I changed into t-shirt. Getting tired. Less thinking. I got two songs in my head. Single ladies. Who let the dogs out.

Back in forest and closer to the end.

12.20

More people. Warmer weather. Construction tape across possible trail. More rocks and roots. Really uncomfortable. And nothing really to see. At some point I got self competitive and wanted to be back at or before 1.15. So I tried to go somewhat faster.

12.30

J. called me, we exchanged few words and then I lost signal. It is funny that I had so great signal on the top of the mountain. More and more people. I hope that they realize how much time they need (or do not aim for the top). Barking dog. Still trying to make it on my time. My stupid aims. I did remember small part of Johny Cash’s song with the line “like a mule”. I was exactly that.

I passed the real trailhead and I believed that I was pretty close and should make it on time.